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Seltene Edelsteine, Smaragde, Saphire,Perlen, Gemmen und Kameen in
der berühmten Devonshire Parure, ein Meisterstück der Viktorianischen
Juweliers und Goldschmiedekunst.
in ihrer natürlichen Form sind die Smaragdkristalle hexagonal.
Damit möglichst wenig Verlust entsteht werden sie gewöhnlich
quadratisch oder rechteckig geschliffen, mit diagonal zu den Kanten
gestellten Facetten. Der berühmteste noch erhaltene Smaragd dürfte
wohl der "Devonshire Smaragd" sein.
Petro II. Kaiser von Brasilien, schenkte ihn 1851 dem Herzog von Devonshire.
dieser Stein wog ursprünglich 1347 Karat. Durch den Schliff wurde
er zu einem Exemplar von 161 Karat von zwar guter, aber bei weitem nicht
hervorragender Qualität reduziert. Der größte wirklich
fehlerfrei Stein dürfte dem russischen zaren Nikolaus II. gehört
haben. Mit seinen 30 Karat ist er zwar verhältnismäßig
klein, dafür aber hat er eine unübertreffliche Farbe.
Left the Zenobia-costume from Worth,Paris, which the 8th Duchess of
Devonshire,Louise, wore at the famous Devonshire Diamand Jubilee House
Ball in the 1897
"...The skirt of gold tissue was embroidered
all over in a star-like design in emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, and
other jewels outlined with gold, the corners where it opened in front
being elaborately wrought in the same jewels and gold to represent peacocks'
outspread tails.
This opened to show an underdress of cream crepe de chine, delicately
embroidered in silver, gold, and pearls and sprinkled all over with
diamonds.
The train, which was attached to the shoulders by two slender points
and was fastened at the waist with a large diamond ornament, was a green
velvet... and was superbly embroidered in Oriental designs introducing
the lotus flower in rubies, sapphires, amethysts, emeralds, and diamonds,
with four borderings on contrasting grounds, separated with gold cord.
The train was lined with turquoise satin. The bodice was composed of
gold tissue to match the skirt, and diamonds, and the front was of crepe
de chine hidden with a stomacher of real diamonds, rubies, and emeralds.
Jewelled belt. A golden crown incrusted with emeralds, diamonds and
rubies, with a diamond drop at each curved end and two upstanding white
ostrich feathers in the middle, and round the front festoons of pearls
with a large pear-shaped pearl in the centre falling on the forehead."
The Times
The coronation of Tsar Alexander II of Russian took place in 1856 and
this remarkable parure was created to contain 88 cameos and intaglios
from the famed Devonshire collection.
The Devonshire Parure. A masterpiece of Victorian jewelry, the parure
showcases 88 priceless engraved gems, most dating from as early as ancient
Roman times.
Consisting of seven pieces of jewelry the suite was made for Countess
Granville to wear in Moscow at the coronation.
The most impressive being the huge stomacher. Sir Joseph Paxton chose
C.F. Hancock to carry out the work and among the several claimants for
the design were the Duke himself as well as Mr. Hancock.
The parure is mounted in enamelled gold and it is in the design of the
enamelling that the term "Holbeinesque" has come to be recognised.
Other gems include Dom Pedro's Emerald. At 1,347 carats it is the largest
single uncut emerald known today. Brought to England in the early 19th
century, the emerald was purchased from Emperor Dom Pedro I, of the
Brazils by William Spencer, 6th Duke of Devonshire.
Accompanying The Devonshire Parure, and Dom Pedro's Emerald is the
Kniphausen "Hawk", a 17th century pouring vessel, said to
have been the inspiration for Dashiell Hammett's Maltese Falcon. Encrusted
with red garnets, amethysts, emeralds, and blue sapphires the vessel
was made in 1697 for George William von Kniphausen, Count of the Holy
Roman Empire.
Hancocks sold many such pieces, and, rightly, was recorded as the
originator of the design.
Another picture of the Duchess wearing the derby
diadem and her jewels.
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