Among Princess Marie Louise’s wedding presents in 1891 was this remarkable spray of two carnations set with rubies and old cut diamonds, a gift from Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, her godfather.
A surviving design by the Viennese court jeweller A. E. Köchert, dated circa 1890–1895, shows a closely related ruby and old cut diamond flower brooch. Although no documentary evidence has yet been found identifying Köchert as the maker of Marie Louise’s jewel, the similarity in date, materials and floral design is intriguing.
What became of the Emperor’s carnation spray is unknown. Princess Marie Louise had no children, but she was notably generous to her nieces and nephews in her will, and it is possible that the jewel passed to one of them.
Does the brooch still survive in the family today? Perhaps someone recognises it from a later photograph, auction catalogue or family collection. Any further information would be very welcome.
Probably she gave it to Cartier for her famous Indian Tiara.
Sources:Archive Ursula Butschal;Royal Collection; The Times;
