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Das Order Buch von Cartier zeigt 1936 folgende Anzahl an Edelsteine
für das ehemalige indische Edelstein-Collier:
13 Saphir-Briolettes
1 Diamant Baquette
1ct Diamant Carres
2 Saphire von 93,25ct
24 Saphire von 55,58ct
16 Saphirkugeln 37,07ct
22 Rubine 30,07ct
19 Rubin-Kugeln 8,60ct
2 Smaragd Carrees 12,06 ct
6 Smaragd Carrees 3,26ct
67 Smaragd Kugeln 134,22ct
2 Diamant Navetten 0,83ct
3 Diamant Trapeze 0,34ct
7 Diamant Baquette 0,97ct
6 Diamant Carrees 0,90ct
594 Brillanten 10,62ct
dazu wurden von Cartier 238 Brillanten zu 3,77 ct und 8 Rubine von 3,06ct
ergänzt.
Vorbild war ein traditioneller indischer Brust-Schmuck des Maharadscha
von Patna, Schwiegersohn des Maharadschas von Patiala - der als "bib"
- wie ein "Lätzchen" gearbeitet war.
Im Bild oben trägt die damalige Prinzessin von Monaco, das herrliche
Kollier anlässlich des Rot-Kreuz-Balls 1994 in Monte-Carlo, es
könnte sich um eine Leihgabe des damaligen Besitzer handeln, es
wurde am 15. May 1991 in Genf versteigert.
1997 war das Collier in London ausgestellt als Leihgabe der Cartier
Collection.
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Emeralds, sapphires, rubies and diamonds in open-back cagework platinum
setting. A heavy collar with inner row of alternate emerald and sapphire
diamonds-studded beads, tw which is attached a narrow band of pave-set
diamonds with an upstandig ruff of meon-cut emerald buds in diamond
calyces, the emeralds with xollet-set diamonds at the tips.
From the diamond band hangs a fringe of articulated diamond-set stems
with carved sapphire and ruby leaves and diamond-studded ruby, sapphire
and emerald beads, ending in thirteen elliptical faceted sapphires.
At thecentre , two square carved emeralds; the clasp formed of two carved
sapphires in the form of buds.
The hinged stems set with baquette diamonds; two marquise-cut diamons
on clasp.Lent from the Cartier Collection in 1994.
Cartier’s most famous Tutti Frutti jewel is the impressive Collier Hindou necklace created for ) socialite Daisy Fellowes in 1936. Based off the design of a necklace made for the Maharajah of Patna in 1935, this piece took the form of an elaborate bib done in the traditional Indian style. Very similar to the Maharajah’s piece, which incorporated old- cut diamonds, carved rubies and emeralds, the Collier Hindou was a knot of twisted diamond vines studded with emerald leaves and berries of ruby and sapphire. An unlucky stone in Indian tradition, sapphires were obviously not used in the Maharajah’s collar, but this necklace used them in excess, with borders of sapphire beads along the top and bottom edges and an additional fringe of thirteen faceted stones suspended along the front. Originally fastened on a cord of Indian silk, the necklace could be adjusted to be worn at varying lengths along the neck, but this feature was changed in 1963 when Fellowes’s daughter Emmeline de Casteja had the strings replaced by a continuation of the necklace’s jewelled motif. The Collier Hindou, with a matching pair of carved emerald and diamond earrings, surfaced at auction at Sotheby’s in Geneva in 1991, and was purchased by Cartier for it’s private collection.
source: Nussbaum, Nadelhoffer
Princess Caroline of Hanover,
Princess of Monaco wearing the Brunswick-Tiara of the House of Hanover >>
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Die Juwelen und der private
Schmuck der Herzogin | Princess Viktoria-Luise`s Private Trove
Das Hochzeitsgeschenk ihrer Mutter
der Kaiserin | Wedding Gift from her mother the Queen of Germany
Diamant-Diadem von Viktoria-Luise Herzogin von Braunschweig
| Viktoria-Luises diamond Tiara
Das Köchert-Collier-Diadem
| Imperial wedding gift, the Koechert-Tiara-Necklace
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