Die Großherzogin Vladimir, Maria Pawlowna, in einem Boyaren-
Kostüm anlässlich eines Kostümballs, den rechteckigen
Smaragd von 107.72 Karats in einer Brosche gefasst trägt sie
mitten auf ihrer Brust, dieses unvergleichliche Schmuckstück
erhielt sie anlässlich ihrer Hochzeit vom Zar Alexander II, dem
Bruder ihres Mannes und stammt aus der Sammlung von Zarin Katharina
der Großen.
Der Stein war angeblich, der zweitschönste existierende große
Smaragd auf der Welt , übertroffen nur im Gewicht, durch einen
anderen Smaragd, ebenfalls aus dem Besitz Katherina der Grossen.
Ihr Sohn Grossfürst Boris, der alle ihre Smaragde und ihren
gesamten Smaragd-Schmuck erhielt, verkaufte diesen Smaragd, nach dem
Tod seiner Mutter 1927 an Cartier.
Raphael Esmerian, der Händler und Edelsteinkenner NewYorks und
Pierre Cartier fassten 1947 den Smaragd als Anhänger, passend
zu einem Collier, das Esmerian von der Familie Payne Whitney ( oben
im Bild linke Seite) aus Smaragden mit Brillanten gekauft hatte.
Auf Empfehlung Esmerian`s stimmte 1954 Cartier zu, den Smaragd in
eine Birnenform umzuschleifen, um einen natürlichen Fehler im
Stein zu entfernen.
Rechts oben im Bild dann der Smaragd mit 75.63zusammen mit dem Collier,
dem ein quadratischer Smaragd hinzugefügt wurde zur Verlängerung.
John D. Rockefeller Jr kaufte das Collier von Cartier im gleichen
Jahr.
The Grand Duchess Vladimir in a native Boyar costume, wearing her
rectangular emerald of 107,72 carats in a brooch on her breast, formerly
in the collection of Empress Catherine the Great, which she received
as a wedding present from Tsar Alexander II. The stone was reputed
to be the second most beautiful large emerald in the world, surpassed
only in weight by another emerald owned by Catherine the Great.
Grand Duke Boris, her son, who got all her emerald jewels, sold this
emerald, upon his mother`s death, to Cartier in 1927.
Raphael Esmerian, the New York lapidary and dealer and Pierre Cartier
agreed to re-mount the emerald as a pendant to a necklace in 1947,
to a necklace that Esmerian had purchased from the Payne Whitney family
(above, left side)
In 1954 on Esmerian`s recommandation, Cartier consented to have him
recut the emerald into a pear shape to remove a natural flaw in the
stone. Above right, the stone ended at 75,63 carats and was restored
to the necklace which had been made larger with the addition of another
square emerald.
John D. Rockefeller Jr bought the necklace from Cartier in the same
year.
About the Grand-Duchess........BERLIN, September 3 1900. A
serious quarrel has broken out between the Czar and his aunt, the
Grand Duchess of Vladimir, which has had the result of causing her
husband, the Grand Duke, to tender the resignation of his office as
Commander of the Metropolitan Military District of St. Petersburg
and of the Imperial Guard.
The trouble, which has not only set all Russian society by the ears,
but has also perturbed several courts, including that of Emperor William,
is due to a question of baccarat and roulette. Last spring the Czar,
alarmed by the extraordinary increase of the scandals at court, in
society and in the army due to high play, issued an edict strictly
forbidding baccarat or roulette.
This ukase followed almost immediately the startling discovery made
by Nicholas that the chapter of one of the principal churches of the
metropolis had pawned the church plate and jeweled icons to pay gambling
debts contracted at baccarat and roulette.
By the army and clergy the Emperor's commands have been obeyed, and
baccarat has stopped at the Yacht and other leading clubs. But society
has treated the imperial edict with something very much akin to derision,
and this is largely owing to the attitude adopted by the Grand Duchess
Vladimir.
The latter is a German Princess by birth, and the only foreign woman
who has declined to change the faith in which she was reared for that
of her husband on marriage. The Grand Duchess is passionately addicted
to gambling. To her is due the introduction of the roulette table
as an article of furniture in the saloons of most of the palaces an
mansions of St. Petersburg, and the edict of her nephew in no way
modified her openly proclaimed determination to visit no house and
to attend no entertainment where roulette and baccarat were not provided
for her amusement. As the Grand Duchess is the most dashing member
of the imperial family and the acknowledged leader of St. Petersburg
society, from which the Czar and Czarina hold wholly aloof, the great
world of the Russian Capital has ignored the ukase of the Emperor
and taken the cue from his aunt.
On discovering the manner in which his orders were defied and the
part which the Grand Duchess has played in the matter, the Czar intimated
to her that unless she set an example of obedience to his behest he
would reluctantly be compelled to visit her with a public token of
his displeasure by banishing her for a time from court and depriving
her of the use of the imperial liveries and of imperial honors.
The San Francisco Chronicle, September 4, 1900
Special thanks to:
Elisabeth AUBRY, aka Lisa for the colorisation of the Grand-Duchess
THE COLLECTION:
