Imperial Emerald and Diamond Sautoir of Queen Marie of Yugoslavia

One year later, when Mignon received the marvelous emerald parure for her wedding, the necklace was altered somewhat.
She decided in 1923 to give the necklace with the detached emerald drops to Cartier to create a completely new and impressive platinum-set sautoir. It is the opinion of experts that this sautoir was one of the most spectacular pieces of its kind ever made by Cartier.
It is easy to determine how the seven round cabochons of the original necklace of 11,14ct; 9,14ct, two cabochons in tt 33,03ct,13,70ct; 9,55ct und 9,34ct the large emerald of the stomacher of 52,97ct are resetted.

As well as ten of the pear shaped emerald have been used of 7,35ct, 9,45ct, 9,54ct, 14,10ct, 13,37ct, 11,48ct, 11,45ct, 12,18ct, 11,75ct, 26,68ct ;
The pear shaped emerald in the end pendent is 27,92ct.

The queen wore the emerald sautoir in different lengths and could arrange it according to the formality of the occasion. In the smaller picture she is wearing it in an alternative version with the three pendant drops but the center pendant does not have a diamond frame.
In the larger picture on the left, the tenth drop was set in a diamond frame. Versatile sautoirs were very popular with the customers of Cartier, Boucheron and Chaumet as one necklace could deliver four or five different looks.
The sautoir and the tiara reappeared in 1944 on the occasion of the marriage of Queen Marie's son Peter (1923-1970) with Princess Alexandra of Greece (1921-1993).
Queen Alexandra wore the tiara to the then Princess Elizabeth’s pre-wedding ball. Queen Alexandra of Yugoslavia Αλεξάνδρα της Ελλάδος και της Δανίας, Alexandra tis Ellados kai tis Danias, Александра Карађорђевић, Aleksandra Karađorđević small picture on the left side.

Five years later the tiara was sold, probably together with the sautoir, to the Parisian jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels. The historic emeralds were removed from the tiara and were sold separately.
However, the tiara was preserved until this day due to its highly important provenance. Paste stones were substituted for the emeralds and the jewel is now exhibited at the headquarters of the company at the Place Vendome, Paris.

What has happened to the sautoir can only be guessed at as a piece of this size is nowadays nearly unwearable; it is highly probable that it was dismantled.

The large emerald of 52,97ct, is recut from VCA, in 2 emeralds of 22,72ct and 8,20ct probably of an ring and collier von Van Cleef & Arpels. The pearshaped emeralds are sold as earrings/earrings pendats. und the round emeralds are recut also for smaller jewels.

This is the end of the fascinating story of these historic Russian emeralds which have adorned five royal ladies over a period of about 90 years. Are today's owners of these stones aware of their uniqueness? Probably not. Nearly sixty years after the emeralds were removed from the tiara by Van Cleef & Arpels every track may have been blurred.

Source: Van Cleef & Arpels ArchivesVCA;
Many, many thanks to Uwe for the text of this interesting story about the historic russian emeralds.

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