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Important Ruby and Diamond Sautoir Necklace made by DREICER & Cie | Lucie BigelowDodge Rosen | Gilded Age Jewels History

Important Ruby and Diamond Sautoir Necklace made by DREICER & Cie | Lucie BigelowDodge Rosen | Gilded Age Jewels History

Mrs. Lucie Bigelow Dodge Rosen, born into a family woven into the fabric of American high society, was an icon of refined elegance, intellectual curiosity, and cultural dedication. Born in 1890 in Bernardsville, New Jersey, Lucie belonged to a lineage marked by influence and impact, where her family name carried weight across industries from commerce to diplomacy. Her paternal grandfather, Brigadier General Charles C. Dodge, was a Civil War hero who had married into the prominent Schieffelin family, renowned for its social stature and contributions to early American industry. Lucie’s maternal heritage was equally distinguished, tracing back to John Bigelow, an eminent diplomat and confidant of Abraham Lincoln.

Despite her roots in the world of privilege, Lucie’s own life was rich in cultural pursuits. After the divorce of her parents, Charles Stuart Dodge and Flora Bigelow, she remained under her mother’s care. Flora would eventually remarry Lionel Guest, a cousin of Winston Churchill, introducing Lucie to the intellectual circles of London and Canada. But it was her marriage in 1914 to the lawyer and banker Walter Tower Rosen that truly marked her path in art and society. Their shared passion for European culture, particularly Italian, led them to cultivate an impressive collection of fine art and antiques over the years. Their beloved Caramoor estate, developed from 1929 to 1939, stands as a testament to their dedication—a sprawling homage to art, filled with hand-selected pieces that reflect the couple’s discerning taste and love for history.

In the portrait of Lucie Bigelow Dodge Rosen from this era, above, she exudes the effortless sophistication that defined her era, captured wearing a striking ruby and diamond sautoir necklace by Dreicer & Company, one of New York’s most prestigious jewelers. This masterwork, designed to be worn as both a short necklace and a dramatic sautoir, represents the pinnacle of the garland style that defined the Edwardian and Art Deco eras. The piece was characteristic of Dreicer & Company’s style, balancing 18th-century courtly elegance with advanced platinum work and the Art deco. Founded by Russian immigrants Jacob Dreicer and his wife, Gittel, Dreicer & Company embodied the refinement and technical prowess that captivated America’s elite at their Fifth Avenue showroom, where tea was served to patrons like Sarah Bernhardt and Mrs. Astor.

Lucie’s choice of jewelry was not mere ornamentation; it reflected her identity and her lineage, a celebration of both heritage and personal accomplishment. Like Dreicer & Company’s jewels, Lucie herself was a bridge between tradition and modernity, living with a grace that still captivates admirers of history and art today.

 

 

Source: Wikipedia, Dreicer & Co. American, New York, 1868–1927;Dreicer and Co Jewelers, 5th Ave NYC;Archive Ursula Butschal;

 

 


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