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THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY
A MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
Each strand composed of sixty or sixty-one graduated emerald beads, joined
by a single and old European-cut diamond pierced plaque clasp, centering
upon a cabochon emerald, mounted in gold and silver, circa 1935, 18¾ ins.
The total weight of the emeralds is approximately 541.40
AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
The openwork cabochon emerald cluster, within a single, old European and
rose-cut diamond frame, to the pearl trim, measuring approximately 7.70 mm, each
surmounted by a single-cut diamond, alternately-set by old European-
cut diamonds, further enhanced by single, pear and old European-cut diamond, cabochon
emerald and cultured pearl bow and trefoil motifs, mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1934
Signed Cartier Mtg, no. 54-52481
Provenance Cartier New York, 31 December 1934, $5,785 (bracelet)
On 11 January 1935, Doris Duke instructed Cartier to modify the bracelet into
a plaque brooch. Later, in 1954, she had Cartier modify again.
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Of Indian design, centering upon a cabochon emerald plaque of circular
outline, with single-cut diamond trim, flanked on either side by old European-
cut diamond trefoil shoulders to the cabochon emerald and four-row cultured pearl bracelet, measuring approximately 4.50 mm, joined by a circular and rectangular-cut diamond clasp,
mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1934, 6½ ins.
Signed Cartier Paris New York, no. 2717519
Provenance Cartier New York, 31 December 1934, $18,505 (as brooch)
This bracelet was originally purchased as a brooch from Cartier New York.
On 11 January 1935, the diamond motif was mounted as a bracelet with
pearls supplied by Doris Duke. She recieved a credit for the pearls and clasp
The incorporation
of Indian influences and gemstones into jewels was one of Cartier's greatest
innovations in
the Art Deco period.
Jacques Cartier first grew enamored of Indian jewels at the turn of the
19th century. As the director of Cartier
London, he was exposed to the lavish jewels of the Indian princes who often
visited Britain. Jacques himself
traveled to India in 1911 in an effort to establish Cartier's reputation
among the Indian elite. Over time, he
gained their admiration and respect, and the Indian elite entrusted Cartier
to re-set and transform their jewels
into modern designs, incorporating traditional motifs.
Indian tradition held that gems were a permanent investment. As they were
passed from generation to generation ,
they would constantly be reset and jewels reinvented with old stones.
Parisian styles and fashion fascinated the Indian elite of this time, so
they were eager to have Cartier reinterpret
their family treasures.
At the same time, as travel increased between the two continents, not only
did Parisian styles grow in popularity
in India, but Indian fashion and design became prevalent in Europe as well.
Cartier began to purchase whatever precious gems were available in India,
including delicately carved emeralds,
sapphires and rubies. Many of these stones were incorporated into
Cartier's Tutti Frutti jewels. Fine quality gems cut en cabochon were often
used to reinterpret Mughal motifs from
art of the Mughal Empire, which merged Hindu and Persian elements.
This bracelet, incorporates three of the most valued gems in Indian jewels:
emeralds, pearls and diamonds.
The richly-saturated cabochon emeralds are the focal point of the bracelet,
the bold, geometric plaque, trimmed
by diamonds, extends diamond and emerald accents to the simple four-strand
pearl bracelet and Art Deco diamond
clasp. The bracelet is an excellent example of Cartier's interpretation
of Mughal jewels.
It is also interesting in the context of Doris Duke's collection as her
purchase of the bracelet and clip in December
1934 preceded her first trip to India and the advent of her passion for
collecting Mughal jewelry.
In February 1935, Doris Duke married James Cromwell, and the newlyweds spent
most of the remainder of the year
on their honeymoon in India. It was during this trip that Miss Duke was
first captivated by Indian culture, especially the decorative and jeweled
arts. The couple bought carpets, ivory
carvings, tiles, jade, bronzes, clothing and jewels. Later, Doris collected
Indian jewels in abundance, delighting
in their heritage as much as in their decorative element.
As with all of her jewels, Doris Duke exhibited refined taste in selection
as well as the redesign of some pieces
to her preference.
The Duke Collection:
DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE, By CARTIER |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
Pearl Earrings Pendants Perlenohrhänger |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
VERDURA BROOCH |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER |Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB|Doris Duke Jewelry| Great Jewel Collector
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