EXQUISITE RUBIES OF DUCHESS OF ROXBURGHE
Today, a considerable portion of rubies seen in the market is often enhanced or heated to create this unique colour of Burmese rubies sought after by collectors all over the world. The finest Burmese rubies are of such breath-taking natural beauty that is in no need of artificial treatments and enhancements. These rubies testifies to this very truth. Each weighing over five carats, the stones possess a homogeneous red colour with good saturation afforded by a desirable clarity. A single stone with a combination of all these outstanding qualities is indeed extremely scarce, thus the rarity of two such well-matched stones cannot be overemphasized.
On March 20, 1878, the 5th Earl of Rosebery married Hannah, only daughter and heiress of Baron Mayer Amschel de Rothschild, of Mentmore, Buckinghamshire. The Earl's diary entry for March 28, 1884 succinctly reads:"London, Garrard came at 12 with the ruby necklace which I bought".
This necklace had to be lengthened and together with a pair of earrings in a fitted case, would have been a gift for his wife Hannah.
The Earl and Countess' youngest daughter, Margaret Primrose, was born in 1881and is pictured above.
On April 20 1899, Lady Margaret Primrose married Robert Crew-Milnes, the first and last Marquess of Crewe, in Westminster Abbey.
The Times of that day reported that "among those present at the abbey were 600 invited guests, all wearing wedding favors of marguerites and primroses, representing the bride's name." Even her wedding dress was embroidered with diamond primroses.
This important pair of ruby earrings, together with an astonishing necklace set with rubies of matching colour and quality, were most probably gifted to the new Marchioness of Crewe and thence by decent to her daughter, Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe.
Just a few years prior (In 1886, the British succeeded in taking over Upper Burma. By 1889, they had formed Burma Ruby Mines Ltd), to that the Mogok Valley mines were acquired by the British and operations were overseen by the British jeweller Edwin Streeter. It is possible to that this suite of rubies may have been among the first Mogok specimens reaching England.
In 1935, Mary married the ninth Duke of Roxburghe and later became The Duchess of Roxburghe. The Duchess of Roxburghe was notable for her tenacity and striking deportment, and certainly for the myriad of splendid jewels that she wore and inherited. The Duchess worked for many charities and was President of the National Union of Townswomen’s Guilds. She was also a devoted patron of the Royal Ballet and an enthusiastic member of the Royal Society of Literature.
To add to their eminent pedigree, this exquisite ruby jewels was the property of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe.
Designed as a series of foliate sprays set with circular-cut, cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, later embellished with circular-cut rubies centred on a similarly set lyre motif, inner circumference 290 mm.
Ruby and Diamond Bracelet second half of the 19th century
Composed of a rosette between tapered foliate shoulders, set throughout with cushion-shaped rubies and diamonds, length 190 mm.
The
centre is detachabel and may be worn as a brooch or pendant together with a detachable brooch fitting.
Sarah Cohen left her granddaughter, Hannah de Rothschild money in her last will, she died in 1879. The reverse of the central motif of the ruby bracelet inscribed "in memoriam, my beloved grandmother Sara Cohen, died 12th Feb. y 1879" .
This was not a direct present from her maternal grandmother Sarah Cohen, who left 1000 Pounds in her will to buy a bracelet.
Twenty-four cushion-shaped rubies alternating with twenty-four similarly shaped diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, length 433 mm mounted in silver and gold. The original necklace on October 24, 1884 had four less rubies and four diamonds; these were added to lengthen. The 21 rubies are of Burmese origin, two rubies of Thai origin. The turquoise velvet fitted case was embellished with the monogram R under a coronet, by R&S Garrard & Co, Goldsmith and Jewellers to The Crown, London. Sold in 2009.
Each of cluster design set with a cushion-shaped ruby, within a border of ten cushion-shaped diamonds, mounted in silver and gold. Can be worn as pendent drops when attached to the later diamond set fittings, made in 1884 by Garrard for the 5th Earl of Rosebery as recorded in one of his diary entries. Sold in 2009.
Sources: Sotheby's Magnificent and Noble Jewels 2015;
Queen´s
Jewel Treasure
Mountbatten Jewels
Queen Mary Jewels
Queen Alexandras Wedding gifts