THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY

 

• VERDURA
  Designed as a red-stained and painted ivory camel, enhanced by cultured
  pearls, seed pearls and diamond collet, surmounted by a painted ivory
  warrior with a seed pearl and carved ruby shield, a polished gold, triangular-cut diamond
  and carved ruby turban, wearing a diamond collet necklace and earrings, mounted in 18k gold,
  circa 1940
  
  Provenance Verdura, 25 May 1940, $400
  
  In 1939, a woman came to Verdura's showroom selling a set of 18th Century painted ivory
  chessman from India. He bought all of them and transformed
  them into exquisite bejeweled brooches. Inspired by the Dinglingers' work in
  the Dresden Green Vaults, the elaborate pieces sold out. Some of the brooches were
  accompanied by a stand to be displayed.

  For illustrations and literature on the Chessman brooches, please refer to Patricia Corbett, "Verdura: The Life and
  Work of a Master Jeweler", Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 2002, page 111
  

  
  
  
  
• A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
  Designed as a multi-strand ruby bead fringe, accented by cultured pearls, measuring
  approximately 9.70 mm, to the ruby bead and polished gold neckchain and cultured pearl
  and ruby bead floret clasp, mounted in 18k gold, circa 1969, 16 ins., in a David Webb black
  suede case
  Signed Webb for David Webb
  
  Doris Duke commissioned this necklace from David Webb using three single-strands of pearls,
  14 loose pearls and 1136 ruby beads she provided. The invoice for $4,000 was paid in full on
  10 October 1969.
  
  
  

  David Webb
  
  opened shop in the late 1940s in New York's jewelry district, but it wasn't until the early 1960s
  that Webb's popularity soared and he established himself as the quintessential American jeweler.
  
  He relocated to Fifty Seventh Street where he sold his designs to private clients in an upstairs salon, while
  maintaining relationships with Bonwit Teller and Bergdorf Goodman.
  The 1960s were a period of change in American culture, as women gained greater independence and confidence;
  and David Webb captured that sentiment to create bold jewels that make a statement for the wearer. He was
  enamored of unusual gemstones, baroque pearls, and semi-precious stones, which he combined in modern and
  innovative designs
  
  David Webb attracted a celebrity clientele. The Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy visited
  his New York boutique and purchased his jewels and President Kennedy commissioned several gifts of State from him.
  Doris Duke began to frequent David Webb's boutique in the early 1960s and often selected suites
  of jewels. She purchased dangling ear pendants, brightly colored necklaces and other bold pieces including.
  It is not surprising that Doris Duke felt an affinity for David Webb's designs. Webb often used imagery from the
  Far East based on his studies of 18th century jewels from Jaipur, India.
  Doris Duke's life-long fascination with Indian jewelry and art began decades earlier and made
  Webb a natural choice for the commission of the Indian inspired fringe necklace, and the emerald bead necklace.
  Miss Duke actually supplied the cultured pearls, rubies and emeralds for
  the designs.A the large cultured pearl and diamond ear pendants are also of obvious Indian inspiration.
  

   

  The Duke Collection:

  EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER
  DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER
  MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
  SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE
  MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
  ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
  EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO
  IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER
  ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER
  A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
  AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
  MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
  AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
  AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
  A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
  A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
  A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
  VERDURA BROOCH
  RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA
  DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH,
  BY FULCO DI VERDURA
  RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER
  MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE
  A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
  

 

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