THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY

•   MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
  The pear-shaped diamond pendant, within an openwork single-cut diamond frame, en-
  hanced by three pear-shaped diamond tassel terminals, suspended by a pearl, measuring approximately 8.80 mm, from a similarly-designed cushion-cut diamond plaque, joined to
  the four-strand pear, marquise and French-cut diamond festoons, with single and old
  European-cut diamond trim and florets, further enhanced by an old European-cut diamond openwork clasp of geometric design, mounted in platinum, circa 1908
  
  Provenance James B. Duke; Cartier Paris, 24 December 1908, 18,500 Francs
  
  Mr. Duke collaborated with Cartier in the creation of this necklace and supplied some of
  the larger diamonds. Originally designed as a sautoir, Cartier finally adapted the design
  to create this magnificent object.

  ................Cartier and the Beautiful Era

Edward VII's ascension to the British throne upon the death of his mother, Queen Victoria, in 1901 marked the beginning of the Belle Epoque. Literally meaning 'beautiful era', it was a time when elegance was valued above all else in fashion and jewelry. The upper and middle classes flourished, especially in America, and indulged in clothing and jewels that expressed their wealth.

At the turn of the century, Cartier was establishing itself as one of the preeminent jewelers to the elites of Paris, London and New York. Their designs paralleled the fashions of the day: upswept hair and low necklines in the evening leant ever more importance to necklaces.

Dog collars, sautoirs and lavalieres were popular styles, as was the garland style festoon necklace represented by this example.

The garland, or neoclassical style incorporating ribbon, swag and bow motifs, was popular following the sale of the French Crown Jewels in 1887.

The House of Cartier's innovations with platinum contributed to its ability to rework neoclassical designs in a newly light and flexible way. Although stronger than silver, which had been favored to display diamonds, platinum is less flexible, which prompted Cartier's designers to construct articulated jewels with hinged elements to create easy movement.
This necklace, is a magnificent example of a Belle Epoque diamond, pearl and platinum garland necklace by Cartier. It ranks as one of the most important and beautiful necklaces representing this era, both for the luxurious elegance of the design and for the opulence of the diamonds. James B. Duke provided the firm with some of the diamonds employed. The original invoice from Cartier's Rue de la Paix boutique is dated 24 December 1908.

EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER
DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE
MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO
IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
VERDURA BROOCH
RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA
DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH,
BY FULCO DI VERDURA
RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE
A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

 

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