THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY

 

• A MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
  Each strand composed of sixty or sixty-one graduated emerald beads, joined
  by a single and old European-cut diamond pierced plaque clasp, centering
  upon a cabochon emerald, mounted in gold and silver, circa 1935, 18¾ ins.
  The total weight of the emeralds is approximately 541.40
  
  
  
• AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
  The openwork cabochon emerald cluster, within a single, old European and
  rose-cut diamond frame, to the pearl trim, measuring approximately 7.70 mm, each
  surmounted by a single-cut diamond, alternately-set by old European-
  cut diamonds, further enhanced by single, pear and old European-cut diamond, cabochon
  emerald and cultured pearl bow and trefoil motifs, mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1934
  Signed Cartier Mtg, no. 54-52481
  
  Provenance Cartier New York, 31 December 1934, $5,785 (bracelet)
  
  On 11 January 1935, Doris Duke instructed Cartier to modify the bracelet into
  a plaque brooch. Later, in 1954, she had Cartier modify again.
  
  
  
• AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
  Of Indian design, centering upon a cabochon emerald plaque of circular
  outline, with single-cut diamond trim, flanked on either side by old European-
  cut diamond trefoil shoulders to the cabochon emerald and four-row cultured pearl bracelet, measuring approximately 4.50 mm, joined by a circular and rectangular-cut diamond clasp,
  mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1934, 6½ ins.
  Signed Cartier Paris New York, no. 2717519
  
  Provenance Cartier New York, 31 December 1934, $18,505 (as brooch)
  
  This bracelet was originally purchased as a brooch from Cartier New York.
  On 11 January 1935, the diamond motif was mounted as a bracelet with
  pearls supplied by Doris Duke. She recieved a credit for the pearls and clasp
  
  
• more Emeralds
  
  Cartier's Indian Intrigue

  The incorporation of Indian influences and gemstones into jewels was one of Cartier's greatest innovations in
  the Art Deco period.
  Jacques Cartier first grew enamored of Indian jewels at the turn of the 19th century. As the director of Cartier
  London, he was exposed to the lavish jewels of the Indian princes who often visited Britain. Jacques himself
  traveled to India in 1911 in an effort to establish Cartier's reputation among the Indian elite. Over time, he
  gained their admiration and respect, and the Indian elite entrusted Cartier to re-set and transform their jewels
  into modern designs, incorporating traditional motifs.
  Indian tradition held that gems were a permanent investment. As they were passed from generation to generation ,
  they would constantly be reset and jewels reinvented with old stones.
  
  Parisian styles and fashion fascinated the Indian elite of this time, so they were eager to have Cartier reinterpret
  their family treasures.
  At the same time, as travel increased between the two continents, not only did Parisian styles grow in popularity
  in India, but Indian fashion and design became prevalent in Europe as well.
  
  Cartier began to purchase whatever precious gems were available in India, including delicately carved emeralds,
  sapphires and rubies. Many of these stones were incorporated into
  Cartier's Tutti Frutti jewels. Fine quality gems cut en cabochon were often used to reinterpret Mughal motifs from
  art of the Mughal Empire, which merged Hindu and Persian elements.
  
  This bracelet, incorporates three of the most valued gems in Indian jewels: emeralds, pearls and diamonds.
  The richly-saturated cabochon emeralds are the focal point of the bracelet, the bold, geometric plaque, trimmed
  by diamonds, extends diamond and emerald accents to the simple four-strand pearl bracelet and Art Deco diamond
  clasp. The bracelet is an excellent example of Cartier's interpretation of Mughal jewels.
  It is also interesting in the context of Doris Duke's collection as her purchase of the bracelet and clip in December
  1934 preceded her first trip to India and the advent of her passion for collecting Mughal jewelry.
  In February 1935, Doris Duke married James Cromwell, and the newlyweds spent most of the remainder of the year
  on their honeymoon in India. It was during this trip that Miss Duke was
  first captivated by Indian culture, especially the decorative and jeweled arts. The couple bought carpets, ivory
  carvings, tiles, jade, bronzes, clothing and jewels. Later, Doris collected Indian jewels in abundance, delighting
  in their heritage as much as in their decorative element.
  As with all of her jewels, Doris Duke exhibited refined taste in selection as well as the redesign of some pieces
  to her preference.
  

 

The Duke Collection:

EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER
DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE
MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO
IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
VERDURA BROOCH
RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA
DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH,
BY FULCO DI VERDURA
RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE
A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

 

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