THE DORIS DUKE COLLECTION OF IMPORTANT JEWELRY

 

• A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
  Each circular and baguette-cut diamond twin leaf surmount, suspending a detachable fluted emerald drop, enhanced by a single-cut diamond cap and diamond collet accent, mounted in platinum, circa 1957
  Surmounts signed Webb for David Webb
  
  Provenance David Webb, 30 November 1957, $12,200
  
  Records indicate the emerald drops cost $8,000, the diamond surmounts, $4,200.
  
  
  
• A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
  Composed of fifty-three graduated emerald beads, joined by an old European-cut diamond
  pierced plaque clasp, centering upon a sugarloaf cabochon emerald, mounted in gold and
  silver, circa 1935, 17¼ ins.
  The total weight of the emeralds is approximately 224.90 carats
  
  For an illustration of a similar single-strand emerald bead necklace, please refer to Bernard
  Morel, "The French Crown Jewels", Fonds Mercator, Antwerp, 1988, page 274
  
  
  
• more Emeralds
  
  In the 15th and 16th centuries, with the advent of the Spanish Conquistadors and their capture
  of the Inca Empire, Colombian emeralds began to journey across the oceans to Europe and the Philippines, which
  was a Spanish colony at the time.
  From the Philippines, the emeralds continued to travel to the Maharajahs of India. The relatively soft hardness of
  emeralds allowed the Mughal Emperors to carve verses of the Koran into the gemstones as well as exquisite foliate designs. The Maharajahs set the Colombian stones into elaborate belts, kada bangles and headpieces
  .
  The most important of the Colombian mines were the Muzo and Chivor located approximately 75 miles from
  Bogota. The Incas rigorously defended the locations of the sacred mines by concealing the way; they were
  discovered accidentally in 1558.
  Colombian emeralds appeared in many Royal Collections and have since been offered at auction.
  
  Most famous perhaps was the collection of jewels of Empress Eugenie, sold on 24 May 1887,
  which contained several magnificent emeralds and was purchased by Tiffany & Co.
  More recently, in 1992, a collection of diamond and emerald jewelry sold on behalf of Mrs. James de Rothschild's Charitable Trust was offered by Christie's in Geneva.
  The emerald bead tiara, seed pearl and emerald drop sautoir by Cartier, and other magnificent gems could be
  traced not only to the Empress Eugenie, but, possibly Queen Isabella II, who ascended the throne in 1833.
  The three emerald bead necklaces belonging to Doris Duke contain emeralds that probably originate from
  the Muzo mines. The necklaces were likely purchased in India on her honeymoon with James Cromwell in 1935.
  The intense color and distinct saturation that typifies a Colombian emerald is illustrated perfectly in these
  remarkable necklaces. Doris Duke, with her fascination
  of Eastern culture, would be intrigued by the journey of the emeralds while appreciating their unique beauty.
  

 

The Duke Collection:

EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND ENAMEL EVENING BAG, BY CARTIER
DIAMOND HAIR SLIDES, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
SPECTACULAR INDIAN DIAMOND NECKLACE
MAGNIFICENT ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO
IMPORTANT PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER
ELEGANT SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND SEED PEARL BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
AN ART DECO PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MAGNIFICENT TWO-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
AN ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
A MAGNIFICENT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD NECKLACE
A SPECTACULAR RUBY AND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
VERDURA BROOCH
RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD FEATHER BROOCH, BY FULCO DI VERDURA
DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, FRESHWATER PEARL AND GOLD INDIAN HEAD BROOCH,
BY FULCO DI VERDURA
RETRO SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY CARTIER
MULTI-STRAND SEED PEARL NECKLACE
A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

 

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