HABSBURG WEDDING DIADEM | Archduchess Hedwig of Austria

Diamond diadem, a gift from Sisi's daughter, Archduchess Marie Valerie| Imperial Austria

This high-profile present was originally given by Archduchess Marie Valerie, daughter to Empress Elisabeth of Austria and Emperor Franz Joseph, to her own daughter Hedwig on the occasion of her wedding on April 24th, 1918.
The diadem was crafted by k & k court jewellers A. E. Köchert in Vienna, set with a total of ca. 40 ct of diamonds.

This imperial wedding diadem will be presented for auction on October 24th, 2018 at Dorotheum Vienna, and sold for EUR 186,000.

Marie Valerie was the youngest daughter of Empress Elisabeth and Emperor Franz Joseph. When her own daughter, Archduchess Hedwig – who Marie Valerie's journal refers to as the one who inherited the ducal Bavarian spark – was wedded to Count Bernhard Stolberg-Stolberg on April 24th, 1918, she commissioned the diadem to the Köchert firm to mark the occasion. .

On a calling card as well as in an enclosed note, Countess Hedwig Stolberg-Stolberg (Bad Ischl 1896–1970 Hall in the Tyrol) confirms the diadem's provenance. It contains an entry and an image of the design drawing referring to the commission by Archduchess Marie Valerie .

It impressed by the original condition and multi-functionality of this imperial diadem: The design appears almost modest,in keeping with the historical events of the preceding years, and focuses the attention on the bearer. It is a truly exceptional piece by the leading jewellers to the Austrian Imperial family.

 

Made from seven individual pieces, the diadem resembles a broad hairband, broken up with three double loops. Diamonds total weight c. 40 ct, manufactured at the behest of Archduchess Marie Valerie of Austria on the occasion of her daughter Archduchess Hedwig’s wedding to Count Bernhard zu Stolberg-Stolberg, gold 580 and silver, an old-cut diamond c. 2.80 ct, two old-cut diamonds total weight c. 2.40 ct, smaller old-cut diamonds and diamond rhombs total weight c. 34.80 ct, workmanship 1918, total weight 132.4 g,

The diadem is also divisible into 7 brooches, fitted case for the diadem, an extra fitted case for 7 numbered brooch elements, 6 ornamental elements with additional components, 3 handwritten cards signed from Archduchess Hedwig.

To highlight the diamonds located at the heart of each loop, a halo setting (a circle of diamonds around a central stone) was selected. The construction of the piece itself offers additional options for the wearer: all seven parts can be worn individually as brooches. The casings and tools required for this conversion have been kept in full and are stored in their own case. Converting the diadem into brooches, of course, gives innumerable variants for the wearer; the individual elements can even be integrated into hair up-dos.

This piece of jewellery drew on individual stylistic elements that had already been used in older drafts by Köchert between 1890 and 1895 and which also crop up in bracelets, necklaces and brooches. The navette-shaped straight and symmetrical bars contrast with the almost playful loops created from double bands.
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When Archduchess Marie Valerie of Austria commissioned the Royal & Imperial Court and Chamber Jewellers Köchert to make a wedding diadem for her daughter Hedwig, the war of the previous few years was already casting dark shadows on the royal and imperial Danube monarchy.


In addition to the historical background, this piece of jewellery is special thanks to its exceptionally good condition and the completeness of the accessories.
The handwritten cards from Countess Hedwig of Stolberg-Stolberg provided with the diadem prove the personal relationship between the original owner and this exceptional item up for auction.

Source:Dorotheum Wien;