Platinbandeau bzw Brustschmuck im Petit-point-Stil, aus dem Jahr 1912,
veränderbar als Armband und Brosche, mit Diamanten besetzt verkauft
an Nancy Leeds, Prinzessin Anastasia von Griechenland.
The tapering articulated band designed as embroidered
fabric, decorated with a pattern of foliate scrolls, like Petit point,
also known as Tent stitch,( is a small embroidery stitch that is worked
diagonally across the intersection of one horizontal and one vertical)
in an exclusiv way, set with old European-cut diamonds against a transparent
web of 'threads', length 11 inches, numbered 6218, center portion may
be worn as a bracelet, the two end segments detach to be worn together
as a brooch, brooch fitting deficient.
The diamond bandeau is defined by Hans Nadelhoffer in his book Cartier:
Jewelers Extraordinary as "a ribbon-shaped tiara whose centre
is not accentuated ... the most timeless form of head ornament ... a
clear idea of what the tiara must have looked like in early civilizations,
when it was still worn as a headband." Like all well-made jewelry
of the period, the present bandeau is "multi-purpose."
The two shield-shaped ends can detach allowing the central portion to
be worn as a bracelet. Joined together, the ends form an elegant brooch
though the brooch pin is currently deficient.
Nancy Leeds, later Princess Anastasia of Greece. Nancy
Leeds, was born Nonnie May Stewart in Cleveland, Ohio. After a brief
first marriage, she married William Bateman Leeds, a tin millionaire,
who died in 1908. A beautiful widow with a sizeable fortune, Nancy purchased
the platinum canvas studded with circular-cut diamonds bandeau from
Cartier in 1912. In the book Cartier, the author Hans Nadelhoffer mentions
Mrs. Leeds as one of Cartier's most loyal customers prior to the onset
of the first World War.
The legal complications resulting from her previous marriages
caused a six year delay of the wedding; the marriage finally took place
in Vevey, Switzerland in January of 1920.
Rue de la Paix , the street occupied by the top purveyors
of fashion in Paris, led by the fashion house of Worth. They profited
by their close proximity to each other, all catering to an international
clientele "prepared to pay the same prices for clothes as for
works of art and who wished to complement their wardrobes with matching
jewelry."
Cartier moved to Rue de la Paix in 1899 to capitalize on the booming
economic climate, instate of turn of the century following the industrial
revolution and preceding World War I was a period of heretofore unprecedented
economic growth, this positioning provided Cartier with the "creative
incentive" to make the acquisition of the appropriate jewel
a necessary fashion accessory.
To that end, using his "intimate knowledge of Worth's fashions
and textiles, fabrics and embroidery in general," Cartier created
in 1912, the lot offered here, a jewel where platinum threads formed
a grid of "fabric" onto which diamond tendrils were
"embroidered." This technique of "platinum embroidery"
originated by Cartier was used in 1914 by Faberge in his "Mosaic
Egg" and utilized by another Parisian jeweler, LaCloche, in 1925.
source: Nadelhoffer, Sothebys
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