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Man sagt, Alexandra hatte sich unbemerkt, in ihrem privaten Safe, eine
der grössten privaten Schmucksammlungen aufgebaut. Für sich
selbst kaufte sie nichts, liess sich aber von allen Schmuck schenken,
vor allem der Zar liebte es seine Frau mit Schmuck zu beschenken, er
mochte wenn sie traditionell russisch mit Juwelen dekoriert war.
Die Zarin stammte aus einem regierenden, jedoch keineswegs sehr reichen
Haus Hessen und ohne erheblichem eigenen Vermögen, sie wollte für
sich und ihre Töchter ein Polster schafften, das sie jederzeit
verkaufen konnte. Eine Reserve für schlechtere Tage, dazu gehörte
wohl auch die oben abgebildete Parure. Das Diadem wurde von Wartski
im Jahr 1920 gekauft und war aus Platin mit Diamanten und Aquamarinen
als Kokoschnik um 1900 gearbeitet.
Im Jahr 1982 wurde in St Moritz ein identisches Set bei Sothebys angeboten,
die Beschreibung war: Henell ?! als Provinienz - ( wobei der
Hersteller des Orginalsets, die Firma Kreuter aus Hanau gewesen ist.
Im Archiv der nicht mehr existierenden Firma, sind die orginal Entwürfe
noch vorhanden. (eventuell hat Henell um 1980 ein Halsband und die Ohringe dazu angefertigt, das Halsband könnte jetzt wohl als 2.Tiara in Gebrauch sein- wobei die Schräge der Anordnung dieses Schmucks, der Tiara nicht stimmig ist- im Gegensatz zu dem Orginaldiadem- Bernadotte Hochzeit in Italien 2018 )
Tiara, bestehend aus einer Serie von rechteckigen Aquamarinen im
Treppenschliff - der Grösse nach verlaufend geschliffen und angeordnet.
Umgeben von Diamantrosen. Darüber eine Reihe von Brillianten in
Halbkreisen gefasst aus Altschliffdiamanten.
Ein Paar Ohrringe (pendants) mit je einem A. im Treppenschliff,
von Altschliffdiamenten umgeben und als Abschluss wieder ein Brilliant
in einem Halbkreis. Dazu das passende Collier - wie Beschreibungen oben,
der Verbleib ist unkannt.
Rechts im Bild ihr ein Geschenk, das sie in der Verlobungszeit erhielt. Eine Brosche aus Gold mit einem
grossen rechteckigen Sibierischen Aquamarin, eingerahmt von einem durchbrochen
gearbeiteten Zick-Zack Gitter aus Diamanten.
Die Brosche hat der Zarewitsch
zusammen mit seinem Hochzeitsgeschenk drei Monate vorher, bei Faberge
bestellt und kostete 1100 Rubel.
Das Geschenk an die damalige Prinzessin
Alix von Hessen, ist von Holmström dem Werkmeister von Faberge
signiert und wurde der Prinzessin am 10. August 1894 päsentiert.
Die Verlobung war bereits im April in Coburg,anlässlich der sogenannte Fürstenhochzeit im Kreise des europäischen Hochadels.
Der geheime Safe wurde übrigens erst in den 50er Jahren entdeckt,
die Sowjets hatten das Versteck während der Revolution nicht gefunden.
Die Aquamarinbrosche war bei den Juwelen in Tobolsk, einer der letzten Aufenthaltsorte
der Zarenfamilie, von Vertrauten geschmuggelt worden und hat die Nummer 87.
Empress Alexandra had the largest personal jewel collection in the
world - and it was all in her bedroom. The bedroom at the Alexanderpalace
was a private vault for some of the most precious jewels in private
hands anywhere in the world... - amounting over $50 million dollars
in 1917 currency. Not willing to let her family's future recourses out
from under her watchful eye - or far from her reach, she kept this collection
close at hand.
While she was frugal to the point of obsession, at the same time Alexandra
zealously made preparations for the later dark 'rainy day' that could
come at any time. From the beginning, and increasingly as the political
situation deteriorated, the Empress made a point of secretly creating
much of her private wealth in that most portable of valuables - jewelry.
So, Alix received her jewelry as gifts. Her relatives knew she prefered
jewelry over other things. They often picked things with sentimental
value - dates, initials, charms - which the Empress loved, this items
were gifts for various occaisions, birthdays, christmas, eastern and
anniverseries.
Just for some perspective on the value of the eggs in those days, Alexandra
took a brooch holding a single diamond of 100 carats when they left.
The value in those days would have paid for ALL of the Faberge eggs
she had. The value of the eggs today is highly inflated much more than
any equivalent value in 1918. The gold, stones, etc were not worth all
that much, and even the labor to make them was much cheaper than today.
Nick, Im sure can help out here with details, but the diamonds, emeralds
and rubies that Alexandra took with her were far more valuable than
the Faberge items.
The Faberge pieces were chosen strictly for sentimental value (the most
expensive egg ever ordered was the 1913 Winter Egg at 24,600 roubles)
.
Some items from her personal jewels, from above:
The Aquamarine and diamond kokoshnik, was of the personal property of the Tsarina Alexandra.
The imperial aquamarine and diamond tiara was made by Koch / Workshop Gebr. Kreuter Hanau, Produktion Nr 35110 in gold platinum, diamond and aquamarin,in 1910, the messures: L100mm W140mm H50mm.
Wartski, purchased the kokoshnik in Russia, in the late 1920s and offered it for sale till 1927-29, in his shop.
The Imperial Russian Aquamarine Diamond Tiara was sold in 1982 by Hennell, at St Moritz Sotheby and 2014 in a privat auction at Sothebys and exhibited 2017 by Christies London.
Since 2020 the kokoshnik is in the Albion Collection -Albion Art Jewellery Institute.
Necklace and earrings(probably made by Hennell in 1980th and of course, not of the imperial collection- matching the imperial tiara, also with diamonds, aquamarine
and made in platinum.
This necklace rebuild as tiara, was later used from Astrid Bernadotte, great-great-granddaughter of King Oscar II of Sweden, at her wedding reception, July 2017. The base and the propotion are different from the orginal imperial tiara.
A gold mounted brooch centred with a Siberian aquamarine surrounded
by a rising openwork border of diamonds-set instersetting zig-zags by
Faberge.
The brooch was acquired by Tsarevich Nicholas as a gift for
Princess Alix of Hesse on 10th August 1894, three months before their
wedding, for 1100 roubles, signed with the initials of the workmaster
Henrik Wigström St Petersburg 1894.
This brooch was declared on the invoice:
"Bought by the heir" Tsarevich Nicholas also presented his
bride for the wedding with a magnificent pearl necklace, with a diamond
set clasp purchased from Faberge for 177600 roubles.
Alexandra's jewelry was composed almost entirely of family gifts. She
bought almost nothing for herself; such purchases weren't necessary.
Each year she received dozens of gifts of jewelry on birthdays, anniversaries,
Christmas and other important dates until her collection totalled several
hundred items which were carried about in massive hardwood cases wherever
the family travelled. The most valuable pieces came from her husband,
who loved to see his wife splendidly dressed and bejewelled in the Russian
tradition.
From "the Letter of Vishnyakova M.I to Kammerfrau Gheringer"
Nickolas II gave Alexandra Fyodorovna a diamond bracelet with pink topazes
as a present.
May 6/19, 1903
***
On Alexandra Fyodorovna's name-day Nickolas II gave her as presents:
a cross of 11 big diamonds (that was made of Bokhara piece of jewelry),
a big brooch with 5 big and 9 small aquamarines,
a comb "lalique"
with 3 big and small diamonds.
A silver chain with 12 balls made of
different precious stones was a present from Grand Duchess Yelizaveta
Fyodorovna..."
Ts.S.p.8,Apr 23/ May 6
***
For Christmas of 1902 in Tsarskoe Selo the Emperor gave Alexandra Fyodorovna
a diadem of small diamonds and 5 cut pink topazes as a present..
The tiara was found at Tobolsk, together with Alexandra Fyodorvnas othe jewels as Nr 13 - noted as Kunzit Tiara with Diamonds.
Maria
Fyodorovna gave her clasps of small diamonds, two chalcedons and 6 small
pearls.
Grand Duke Sergey Alexandrovich presented her with a brooch
made of white mosaics.
***
For Christmas of 1903 in Tsarskoe Selo Alexandra Fyodorovna was presented
with the following pieces of jewelry:
Star of white enamel with a heart in the middle of it and 8...(?) in
it from Duke of Hesse in memory of Princess Elizabeth of Hesse.
Bracelet of 9 sapphires "Sternsapphire" with small diamonds
from Empress Maria Fyodorovna.
Flowers of platinum with 2 cut sapphires at the ends and a ring with
a mauve pearl and 8 small diamonds from Nickolas II....
***
On Alexandra Fyodorovna's name day on May 26/June 8 1909 she got the
following pieces of jewelry: Pendant with 2 diamonds from Grand Duchess
Yelizaveta Fyodorovna.
Gold bracelet with 3 ship lamps from Henry of Prussia....
For Christmas of 1909 she got a brooch of 6 cut sapphires from Grand
Duchess Yelizaveta Fyodorovna, a pin "Lily of the Valley"
of one pearl and 3 small diamonds from Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna
and 6 blue and grey enamel buttons from William of Sweden...."Gheringer
M.F.WRITTEN ON SEPTEMBER 7, 1909 FROM LIVADIA. M.F."
A splendid star ruby in a ring, the star ruby being her favorite jewel
(together with her pearl earrings).
source:Wartski, London; Alexanderpalce.org;
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